If it is important to quickly put the machine back into service, the connector pin joint is the way to go.
The glue-in-place joint is stronger and will last longer, but it takes more time to install. If the machine is to be run constantly, the glue-in-place would be the better choice.
Also, a glued belt is friendly; no possible metal to metal wear on the pulleys.
The smooth side goes against the pulleys. It has a better surface for friction than the rough side.
No, we do not. If you feel the need for belt dressing, it is likely because the belt symptom is slippage due to insufficient tension, a worn belt, the wrong belt, contamination issue, or mechanical issue. Address these issues first.
Yes,- skirting is used on conveyor systems for containment.
For certain, South Bends and Logans are the most popular in number, and while we have a good idea of the size range, we ask you to measure, because we cannot see your machine and have no knowledge of any repairs or modifications.
Also, if you are changing from a leather belt, which stretches, to a nylon belt, which does not, and you were at the end of travel of the leather belt you are replacing, taking a measurement from that belt will render your new belt too long. This is why you want to be at the low end of your tension adjustment when you measure from your machine, with your machine in the tensioned or running position.
The glue kit belts come with two different types of glue. One is a rubber cement (contact cement) and the other is very special glue for the nylon in the belt. This glue is not available in hardware stores. Both types of glue are to be applied to each end of the belt, and the glues are not meant to mix. The rubber cement goes on the rubber areas and the nylon cement goes on the nylon areas.
If you are able to restore the surfaces that are to be glued to what they looked like when the belt arrived, you may order just the glue and try again.
For the best chance of success, the old glue should be removed and the area cleaned with alcohol. If glue has dried on the glued surfaces, it can be removed by carefully abrading the area with a belt sander or similar device.
When you are ready to bring the glued ends together, check the belt path to avoid gaps, twists, or catching, use light clamping to keep the belt in good alignment, and your glued belt will turn out perfect.
It is best to glue the belt within two weeks of receiving it. The nylon glue is less affected by the passage of time than the rubber cement. The nylon glue can still be used when it is 3 to 4 months old, but by then the rubber cement will probably not be usable.
All belts will elongate when tension is applied, – some more than others. Tension a new belt slowly in fine increments, particularly on a belt with a connector pin joint. It does not take much to achieve good tension. A nylon belt will return to its original length when relaxed. It is recommended to relax belts (if possible) when not in use.
We need to get an idea of how hard the belt is being bent. Every belt material has a minimum bending radius and the smallest pulley dictates what materials may be used. Belts usually do not wrap around idler pulleys, but in some cases, they do.
There is a good chance that the old belt is stretched, especially if the belt is leather. In this case, your machine might be out of travel for tension adjustment. You should back off the tension adjustment down toward the low end and then put the machine in the running position and measure around pulleys. A good tape measure is a hand crank 50 feet or 100 feet tape measure because they are flat and not spring return.
Generally speaking, no there is not. Belts used in figure 8 setups are usually 4 or 5 ply transmission belting but many other materials would work. Also, figure 8 belts are usually very long and the transmission belting is about the least expensive. Figure 8 belts can be laced or glued endless.
Yes, we ship anywhere that can be reached by USPS.
Under certain circumstances, we also use FedEx or UPS.